Soul Surfer: Simply For The Pleasure

Surfers are a different breed. I really do believe that. They are genuine. And probably a little bit crazy, especially to an outsider. I am not just saying that because I have a passion for surfing and all things ocean, I am saying that through personal encounters with kind souls passing by and my following and love for an array of professional surfers that have become my role models. Role models are people that you look up to, admire, and strive to reflect in the way you live your life and carry yourself. In the way that some people watch sports or theater, I have followed professional surfing for as long as I can remember. Given that most of the competitions on the world circuit are in different time zones than where I live, and are not generally televised as much as they should be, I find myself glued to my phone on the World Surf League website at the oddest times. Most likely the most rebellious thing I would do during my time in high school would be sit in the back of the class and secretly watch surfing heats on my phone while trying to suppress my reactions so I didn't blow my cover. While at first I was entranced by the competitive nature and the talent, my interest in the sport turned from sheer athleticism to the athletes as people. When I think about role models, I think of Bethany Hamilton, and I can owe that aspect of myself to the days spent in statistics cheering her on silently from my seat. 

Most likely, if you know anything about professional surfing or watch a decent array of movies, you have heard of the inspiration for the movie Soul Surfer. Bethany Hamilton was just an average 13 year old in 2003 who set out for a morning surf that would change her life fundamentally and spiritually. At just 13 years only, Bethany lost her arm to a 14-foot tiger shark. She details the events of this pivotal day in her life where she was paddled to shore,  equipped with a make-shift truncate out of a surfboard leash, and rushed to a hospital all while loosing 60% of her blood to the wound. Even after losing an arm and feeling the true power of sharks and nature in its entirety, she found the courage to get back up. Well, she found the courage to get back in the water. A month later. Despite a plethora of hardships that come with relearning basic functional skills, she was determined to learn to surf again. Surfing is tough enough with all your limbs, so the thought of making a drop and paddling with one arm is astounding. 

Instead of letting a tragedy diminish her passion for the water and love for surfing and life, she used it as fuel. Fuel to fight for her abilities back, and fuel to inspire others to push through what they are dealing with. She worked and earned a top spot back on the World Surf League circuit, continued to be a powerful woman athlete, and uses her platform to inspire others to get through their own trials with faith in God and determination. Today she has a young child and a husband, but still continues to surf and travel with her non-profit foundation, Friends of Bethany, which reaches out to young girls in need and brings them guidance through Jesus, fellowship, and the healing powers of the ocean. She is such a figure of encouragement, courageous determination, and truly a thalassophile

The Great Barrier Reef: A Farewell

It can be seen from space. It spans an area about the size of Germany. It is (was?) the largest living structure in the world. It is a combined compilation of 3,000 reefs spanning 2,000km. It is the home of over 1,600 species of fish, 130 types of sharks, and more than 30 species of whales and dolphins. It is an underwater world of incomprehensible proportions, and it is one of most fragile and complex ecosystems on the entire planet. The Great Barrier Reef.

The Reef is dying, and human defiance and climate change has everything to do with this tragedy. It is easy to say that we do not live near it, we don't feel the affects of its death, and that we do not see this as a huge problem, but that is simply not the case. Our oceans and their prosperity directly parallel our lives and prosperity, and the failure of our oceans will result in noticeable adverse phenomenon in our lives as well.

To understand what is going on with the reef and how this affects a perplexing number of global citizens, it is crucial to internalize what exactly is physically taking place there. The process of the dying reef starts with the phenomenon of bleaching. Bleaching of coral occurs when the water temperatures are too warm for a consistent period of time and subsequently stresses out the coral polyps to the point where they spew out the algae that lives inside of them. The algae that emerges takes away the colorful algae that we typically attribute to thriving coral, thus revealing the dull white and transparent skeleton of the coral. At this point, the algae begins to starve and die permanently because algae provides the coral with roughly 90% of its energy at any given time. Coral that was once vibrant and thriving is now covered in a thick seaweed, which grows as a result of bleaching and death of the coral and can take up to 10 years to reverse if a very specific set of extreme circumstances occurs. We are seeing now that revival is only possible if there is an extreme and consistent drop in water temperature, and help administered by policy change which seems unlikely in Australia and the world.

So what does this mean? It translates directly to a complete meltdown of an entire ecosystem, one that many organisms and humans depend on. It starts small, but the affects becomes widespread. Fish species that depend on the coral for shelter and food either die or relocate, the bigger predator fish that feed on the smaller fish die or move as well, birds that feed on the fish lose their main food source, land plants that benefit from their droppings die out, and humans who rely on the reef for food , shelter, and protection lose a vital resource. Given that humans are generally self-serving, this idea is perhaps the most frightening and will affect roughly half a billion people around the world.

With all this said, we need to be clear that this is not happening naturally. While minor bleaching has occurred throughout history with some natural fluctuations in water temperature, a massive spike first noticeable in 1979, correlates directly with the warming of the atmosphere. Regardless of your stance on global warming as a concept, the affects and statistics behind it are undeniable on reefs around the world. There have been 3 major periods of coral bleaching and death, and with climate change becoming more prominent, records are not hard to beat. The three massive periods of this occurred in 1988, 2002, and now in 2016: each occurrence exponentially increasing in severity and urgency. According to ARC Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies, about 90% of excess heat and carbon trapped in our atmosphere goes directly to the oceans and increases surface temperature. This increase in temperature brings coral to the brink of stress by consistently forcing them to attempt to survive temperatures in which they simply are not about to thrive at.

Our oceans are too precious, and too imperative for our lives. While you may not have the same passion for the ocean as some of us thalassophiles do, this should alarm you. It is our duty as humans to do what we can, and we have consistently failed to do so, thus bringing us to this point. The reefs could die indefinitely, and we will collectively be the ones to blame. "Bouncing back" is no longer a possibility, and our only hope at saving the reefs lies in policy change, global support, and decrease in fossil fuels which contribute to global warming. Everyone can help, even if that help is simply educating yourself on the issues and committing to the environment for the greater good of the future of our oceans and our world.

Sourses: The Guardian 

  National Geographic

Chasing Mavericks: Children of the Tides

"We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don't come back, leaving only that which was touched along the way" -Frosty Hessen, Chasing Mavericks

This is the blog post that I have been waiting to write. The one I have been thinking about in order to make it as thoughtful and impacting as possible because the subject matter is so unbelievably important to the way I live my life and the mantras that I gravitate towards to get me
through the human experience and all that comes with it. Chasing Mavericks.

If you know of Chasing Mavericks, or even if you do not, I must say that it is a movie. But it is not just a movie. It is a story of adolescence and bravery and unmatched courage and pushing the limits to achieve a goal. While those themes appear in a multitude of different movies and shows and novels, Mavericks is a story of courage honoring the life of a figure who embodies this courage: Jay Moriorty. When I tell people about this movie which has had such a profound impact on my life, I stress that while the subject matter is surfing, that is not the takeaway from the film. The takeaway is putting heart into everyday, showing the world more kindness than it has shown you, and pushing boundaries.

Jay Moriarty was a young boy who was born in Georgia, and after his parents spit and Father's disappearance, moved to a grungy Santa Cruz, Californian neighborhood. Being 8 years old at the time and coping with the absence of a father figure, he did what most kids in this position do: find an escape. For Jay, that escape was surfing. Despite adverse circumstances, he develops a passion for living and specifically for surfing. This passion is fostered by his eventual mentor and father-figure, Frosty Hesson, a real-life prominent figure in big wave surfing and pioneer at the most storied break in California during El Nino: Mavericks, in Half Moon Bay, California. This relationship is depicted in the movie as it, reportedly, unfolded in real life. It started out as a reluctant agreement between a young boy and an older man equipped with waterman skills and the same passion for the waves as Jay. This relationship, although formed with an element of tough love, becomes one of mutual companionship and the exchange of life lessons.

"What's going on inside of you, Jay? What are you afraid of? You've got a chance to change everything. Take it. This is about more than just surfing. This is about choices you make in life. This is about finding that one thing that sets you free. You need to believe in yourself or none of this matters." -Frosty

This quote is one that I take into consideration in my own life, and find it vastly applicable in some facets to all humans going through their own variations of life. Making the choices that you need to make to get you where you need to be, and affirming your own strengths. Standing fearless in the face of your own "drop", even if it's not a wave break. 

While the end goal of the duo is to train Jay to surf Mavericks, a wave many people did not think was real up until this point,  the journey to the point before he makes the final drop is where the magic is.
He trains to survive of the most dangerous waves in the world despite all odds, setbacks, and warnings about the possible outcomes of such.

His success at the end is only a small attribute to the full life he lived and the hearts that he touched along the way. While it is not depicted in the movie itself simply because it is not the subject matter focused on, Jay Moriarty dies a few short years later during a free dive in the Maldives due to drowning. His life is celebrated by the mantra live like Jay, and his legacy is one of positivity, and fearlessness, and love. The end of the movie commemorates his death as a collateral of pushing the limits.

"Don't take anything for granted, because one minute it can be there and the next minute it can't, and it happens so quick. When the negative stuff comes around, just let it go. It all leads to the positive as long as you keep a positive attitude. Enjoy everything you get. That's one of the most important things in life is really appreciating it because we only get to do this once and it's not for a long time." -Jay

The Power of Nature: Are we not as in control as we think?

It really is no secret that a general attribute of human nature is the tendency to be egocentric: to see ourselves as the center of all things, and in turn, ignore things that challenge our beliefs. The human complex is one built on a fragile ego that we are the driving force of the universe and that we are the most salient and vital part of this earth, possessing complete power over our earthly existence and the things we chose to take up or ignore. However, this fault in our mindset, which is taught and internalized through human nature, is knocked down again and again (and again). When we get too comfortable, or to conceited, nature never fails to remind us that we are simply not in control. This topic is heavily prevalent right now in the forthcoming Hurricane Matthew, which is predicted to assert its dominance over the east coast. 

From a surfer and an ocean lover perspective, hurricanes make for legendary waves and surf breaks. It's hard not to get excited about an impending storm for many people that share this love and outlook. However, when storms threaten the safety of millions of people and their prosperity and homes, that is when things turn serious. Hurricane Matthew, currently a category 4 hurricane making his way up the east coast, is sure to assert dominance as a display of the overwhelming power and strength of nature. This power is not to be underestimated. 

The storm blew through Caribbean islands earlier this week, leaving in its wake a path of shambles, floods, devastation, and millions of people without homes or basic supplies. This devastation is no stranger to Caribbean nations, as they know the power of nature all too well. Matthew took a staggering 108 lives in Haiti, and a total of 114 across the Caribbean. These numbers matched with the damage has Florida and the east coast on high alert as the storm sets it's sights for it and increases momentum and speed after falling off for a day. Matthew is predicted to be the worst storm in years, specifically for the United States. Bill Karins, an NBC meteorologist says, "Sadly, this is one of the most dire predictions I've ever given for a hurricane forecast. The devastation that is left behind is going to take us weeks to clean up, and a lot of people are going to need help."(NBC News). 

In preparation for this storm, 2 million Americans have already fled from their homes in Florida, Georgia, and South Carolina in compliance with advisement from state governments. 

President Obama has already declared a state of emergency for the state of Florida, as the storm is set to strike Florida Thursday night, the 6th of October. It is expected to be a category 5, and while Floridians are used to braving storms, nature is stronger than we believe and capable of a massive amount of destruction to incomprehensible proportions. 

The ocean has always had its way of making me feel small, and I believe many people manifest that same feeling from other phenomenons as well. As humans, we must respect where it is that we come from and the natural flow of the universe and nature. Nature is stronger than us in every aspect, and will prove, time and time again, that it is dominant beyond measure. We are all put at the hands of nature and her ways, and that is reason enough to respect our world and our oceans. As this storm leaves behind a tragic mess in the Caribbean countries and sets aim for the east coast, I urge everyone to send positive thoughts to the inhabitants and everyone affected. We are not as in control as we think we are.